(Insert 100 other examples here)

And every time, I internally cry and scream. Because we’re misreading our dogs.

Your dog isn’t stubborn. They either do not understand what you’re expecting of them or they can’t do what you want for XY reason or they are desperately trying to tell you that what you offer just does not work for them.

If you don’t understand the WHY behind the “no”, you’re not going to be able to communicate properly with your dog.

“My dog is stubborn, he wants to stop to sniff everything on our walks”.

Well, Mother Nature gave your dog this amazing super power and Doggy knows how to use it for their own satisfaction”. 

Maybe YOU see “taking a walk with Doggy” like “let’s walk 500 miles” but THEY are more interested in sniffing every inch of that street.

That’s why it’s so important that you understand and meet their needs.

Or maybe Doggy knows that once he’s done peeing and pooping, your turn around and go back home. So if we stop everywhere, we won’t go home and you won’t leave me alone to go to work.

Our dogs are oblivious of the reality to our Human life: leaving the house to go to work to make some money to pay your kibble and vet bills? What do you mean??

I’m not saying “Quit your job and spend your time with your dog, and who cares about money?” 

Just that it’s easier for us to try to understand their point of view and go from there.

“My dog knows this cue, but he’s stubborn, he won’t listen”:

Are you sure you trained your dog to respond to that cue in that specific context?

If Doggy is able to come when you ask them in your quiet living room, that’s great! But doing it in a busy park, with dogs running everywhere and a squirrel on each tree, it’s a completely different game.

It’s a bit like being able to swim 50m in less than 50 seconds in your swimming pool. No one will expect you to achieve the same time in the ocean on a stormy day.

You need to proof your training, by slowly adding difficulties in a controlled environment.

“My dog so stubborn, he won’t eat the crazy expensive food I bought him”:

Well, let me tell you that if you invite me for dinner and thought you’d please my French mouth with expensive champagne and caviar, you will think I’m stubborn too!

It’s a matter of taste and personal preferences!

Expensive (or not) is a Human conception. Doggy has no idea that you had to sell a kidney to buy this kangaroo raw food. 

Maybe he doesn’t like kangaroo. Maybe he just liked it last month when he stole your friend’s dog’s meal when you were visiting them.

Maybe he’s in pain and eating makes it worse. Maybe something is wrong.

Dogs are hedonist and opportunist creatures!

They naturally do what works for them and enjoy the opportunities that life offers them.

So, of course, if you want to turn right but it smells like chicken on your left, your dog will choose left.

He isn’t stubborn to not follow you, he’s just doing what works for him.

Asking them to act differently as soon as you want them to, I don’t think it’s fair and it’s definitely not realistic.

They’re defintely not trying to be the alpha, that myth has been debunked a long time. If you still have doubts about it, recommend Bary Eaton’s book Dominance in dogs: fact or fiction.

To me, saying “my dog is stubborn” is ignoring the real message that your dog is trying to tell you and missing out on an opportunity to communicate with your dog. 

I completely agree that sometimes we don’t have a choice, we need to “force” our dog to do what we need them to do.

Because we need to go home, because we need them to stay close to us, because we have to take them to the vet even if they don’t want to.

But acknowledging what your dog is telling you and trying to see things through his eyes will help you build a real connection with your dog. 

And that’s a key to a strong relationship based on mutual understanding and respect, in which your dog will follow you anywhere, out of trust and love, not fear and frustration.

If you struggle with some behaviours that you qualify as stubborn, reach out and schedule a session with me. I’m only an email away!

onlypawsitivesolutions@gmail.com

The Is my dog really stubborn ? article first appeared on Only Pawsitive Solutions.

Can you picture your dog, during his daily walks, sniffing every inch of the pavement (tracking) or his nose in the air (air scenting), catching a scent coming from God knows where, that we are not equipped to smell?

What does my dog smell?

So many things, my dear, so many things…

With more than 100 million olfactory receptors (Yes, more than 100 million!!), your dog’s nose is insanely powerful and puts us to shame, with our ridiculous 6 million.

Needless to say that he can smell a dead rat miles away and days old scents.

Food, people, other animals, very interesting smells for our furry friends but one of the most interesting things for them to sniff and analyze are hormones.

So many things can be told through hormones!

The gender of the other dog, of course, but also if he’s scared (fear can be detected through pee, poop and sweat!!), healthy, neutered or not…So don’t blame your dog for sniffing his friend’s rear end or even your Uncle Dave’s.

It might be inappropriate in the human world but for a dog, it’s basic behaviour and absolutely not rude.

Unless it lasts too long and/or if the other dog isn’t ok with that.

Then you’re absolutely right to call him away and go on with your walk.

And to help Uncle Dave think about something other than your dog shoving his nose between his legs, you can tell him about the Jacobson organ that dogs have! An organ acting like a second nose and meant especially to detect and analyze pheromones.

See, Uncle Dave? My dog is not a perv, he’s a superhero!

The 5 stars sense of smell:

Scientists say that the part of their brain devoted to analyzing our smelly world is 40 times more developed than ours.

Some breeds are well known for having a very developed sense of smell and can be used to detect explosives, truffles, drugs, human remains… (Never ending list). They’re naturally good at it and this ability makes them very good for the job they were bred to do.

In the last decade, we’ve developed new skills like detecting cancer, warning people with epilepsy of an incoming episode, detecting gluten… It’s amazing!

Obviously, not all dogs are born equals and gifted with this 5 stars nose.

Some breeds with a short snout, like French bulldogs, Boston terriers aren’t bred to become Police dogs but it doesn’t mean that they can’t use their nose and enjoy some nose games or man trailing!

Let them sniff!

Now that you know how powerful your dog’s nose is, I hope you understand why it’s so important to let him sniff and how it’s part of his biological needs.(Learn more about your dog’s needs HERE)

When your dog is sniffing your neighbor’s fence or a post, it’s a bit like you when you’re scrolling on your favorite social media or reading your email. Welcome to PEEBOOK, my friends.

Do you like to be disturbed when you’re scrolling through Facebook? Think about it the next time you feel the urge to pull on the leash or ask Doggo to “Leave it”.

Instead, try walking him with a long line if the environment allows it, and let him follow his nose.

Keep in mind that nose focused activities are about 8 times more tiring than physical activity. So it might be worth it to let your dog sniff however many fences and posts he wants, instead of walking 4 miles, right?

An easy way to stimulate their brain and nose, is to take them to new places and to let them discover new smells and use that beautiful tool they have!

A calming sense:

Sniffing is tapping into your dog’s brain, as we saw above. This innate behaviour also lowers the heart rate and has a calming effect on your dog.

That’s even something you can use if you see that your dog is a bit anxious and needs to relax.

Toss a few treats in a snuffle mat or on the grass, and let him find it. It’s called foraging and it’s extremely good for dogs, anxious or not!

Sniffing is also used as a calming signal, between dogs and other animals. You can probably remember your dog “pretending” to be sniffing the ground when another dog was approaching him. That calming behaviour is interpreted as “I mean no threat, I came in peace”.

Learn more about calming signals HERE.

Dogs can also use it when they want to disengage after playing, to let the other dog know that they need a break.

Happy nose, happy dog!

Such an interesting and powerful sense, right?!

Studies have shown that the more dogs are allowed to use their nose through different activities, the happier they are! And we all want our dear furry friends to be happy, right?

Using their brain and nose helps them feel more confident and calm.

Activities like foraging, scent detection and nose work are excellent for your dog’s mental health and happiness.

If you’re interested in starting a fun activity with your dog, join us for the online and live nose game class! Contact us for details!

The Who let the nose out? article first appeared on Only Pawsitive Solutions.

Trigger stacking refers to an accumulation of stress that can push the dog to react « suddenly and without warning ».

Basically, It’s the snowball effect: when a lot of little things add up to become a big thing, just like for us.

During the day or even a shorter timespan, your dog has been accumulating different stressors and then BOOM! He lashes out because altogether it’s just been too much for him.

Stressors and triggers:

It could be anything causing a negative emotional state for your dog. It’s important to identify it.

Here is a non exhaustive list of triggers and stressors: a loud bus in the street, kids crying next door, dogs barking in the park, crows at the window, a disturbing smell, a cat on the other side of the street, people fighting, skateboards, bikes, strangers trying to pet him, a fire alarm in the building but also the thunder, the rain, the wind, the cold…

Internal stressors such as hunger, thirst, pain, lack of sleep have also a big impact on our dogs and can definitely act as a stressor.

Boredom can also be very stressful for a dog, small or big, young or not. Make sure you reach your dog’s needs!

Can you make a list of your dog’s triggers?

Keep in mind that:

• Every dog reacts differently, as they all have different THRESHOLD.

• Triggers have different intensities for dogs (It can depend on the size, the distance, the age of the dog, his past experiences…)

• Every dog recovers differently after being triggered.

How do I know my dog is stressed?

Dogs exhibit their stress through their body language. If pay attention to your dog’s body language and learn how to understand it, you’ll be able to evaluate his stress level.

Here is a very nice book by Lili Chin to start learning about body language : Doggie language and if you want to learn more about it, be sure to check out my ONLINE COURSES.

Susan Garrett, a world famous dog behaviour consultant, invented the acronym TEMP, to help us remember what to pay attention to. TEMP stands for

– Tail,

– Ears and Eyes, 

– Mouth, 

– Posture

What can I do to avoid trigger stacking?

First, remove the trigger or the dog from the situation.

Management is crucial to avoid the stressors and keep your dog under threshold, as much as possible.

Be sure to regularly empty your dog’s emotional cup. It will help him get rid of the tensions. 

How? Simply get him to play, sniff, ask him tricks he knows and likes, take him for a decompression walk (cemetery, deep in the woods, on a secluded beach, in the mountains..). Anything that would create a positive emotional response.

That will de-stress your dog and refill his emotional cup with good energy.

How training can help with trigger stacking?

As mentioned previously, it’s important to list the triggers. Once you’ve identified it, you can start working on it using positive reinforcement techniques.

First we’ll use desensitization to lower the intensity of the trigger. We’ll start with enough distance to keep the dog under threshold.

Then we’ll use counter-conditioning, to get a positive emotional response instead) to minimize the stressors in your dog’s life. We can use treats, toys, life rewards, anything you dog likes and that will have a positive impact on him.

Learning some managing tools is also crucial to learn how to get way from critical situations.

Hiring a R+ dog trainer to help you will definitely make a difference, as it’s important to learn about YOUR dog’s body language, be sure to identify when he’s anxious and needs you to get him away from a situation and then to be sure to have the right timing once you’re training,…

CONTACT ME today to help you with your dog’s problematic behaviour(s).

The Trigger stacking article first appeared on Only Pawsitive Solutions.

Often misinterpreted, growling is seen as a behavior that needs to be reprimanded, that we can’t tolerate.

For a lot of people, a dog shouldn’t growl whatever the situation is.

How many times have you told your dog off for growling or snarling?

Do you remember what the situation was? Did you try to understand why he did this and what he was trying to tell you?

I growl, therefore I say…

A dog doesn’t growl just for fun.

Growling or snarling are part of a dog’s language. So it’s normal for him to use it to communicate with you or an other dog.

If he has to go there, it usually is to express an underlying problem. It can be discomfort, embarrassment, stress or fear, pain… If you only see aggression in it, you’re forgetting 3/4 of the story. You need to know what’s making him act like this to understand what’s happening, the feeling behind this behavior.

He’s warning you that something isn’t right for him, you have to listen and make sure that it stops.

Yet, too often, the contrary happens.

A dog who’s growling is met with a « shhhh », « heyyyy! » « no!! » and bam! a pull on the leash… Huge mistake!

You’ll have to understand that this growl is already close to the end of his expression scale. Unfortunately, you missed all the other signs he has in his canine language).

Never punish a warning sign

Punishing a growl or any other early WARNING SIGNS (snarling, snapping…any warning behaviour), you’re telling your dog « I don’t care about your feelings, be quiet ». You’re not taking away his stress, in fact you’re probably increasing it! Because now he thinks that he can’t trust you, as you don’t listen to him and you become psychologically violent.

Sure, your « shhh » or your pull on his leash made Doggo stop. And he has understood, he looks guilty, right?

Well, except in his head, that’s not what’s happening at all.

In your dog’s mind :

There’s often a huge difference between what you think you’re teaching your dog and what actually happens in his mind.

What is your dog learning? That expressing clearly that he’s not feeling well and wants to be left alone, is useless. That you’re unable to keep him psychologically safe by making this difficult situation stop, although it forces him to growl and snarl…

Let’s imagine that your dog growls toward a group of kids running and yelling close to him. Punishing him will only reinforce his discomfort. In your dog’s mind, he has even more reasons to dislike it, « first, they yell, they run, and then I get kicked because of them ». Result: kids are a nightmare, I hate them. Now you have a dog who will see every child as a monster.

If you scold your dog, what he probably thinks now is: « I’ve already shown my Human that I didn’t like this situation, by licking my nose, turning my head, looking away, I’ve ended up growling a little and all I’ve got was him pulling on my leash and scolding me… What else can I do to make him understand that I NEED him to make this stop?e

What do you think will happen, if warning you doesn’t work, since « I’m not listened to and, even worse, I’m being punished »? What happens if the situation doesn’t give him an escape?

Worst of all, if you manage to suppress the warning signs your dog was giving, you’ll end up with a dog who bites without warning. Because your dog has learned that it’s not safe to warn, so he won’t warn anymore.

So what option does he have left?

Biting.

Growling is warning, and warning is a good thing!

Biting…

Not really the sweetest option, right? A biting dog is a dog who came to understand that all the other warning signs he sent were useless since nothing changed.

So now you have a dog who will bite without warning. Awesome, right?

But unfortunately, you thought that, as your dog stopped growling, everything was ok. Until the accident.

In your dog’s mind, things are simple -> I talk, nothing happens. I snap/bite, everything stops. Ok, then biting/snapping is the best tool for things to change. Noted, that’s what I’ll do now, thanks for letting me know what to do to be listened to.

It’s not really what we want, right?

A dog who doesn’t warn anymore is the worst scenario. It’s the famous « he wasn’t aggressive before ». Well, yes, but he tried to warn you with all the signs he could use. You didn’t listen/understand.

And because of this lack of understanding, he became unpredictable, like a time bomb, ready to explode.

That’s why every dog pawrent should learn about dog body language and know how to read a dog. Here is a good book to start learning about body language Lili Chin – Doggie body language.

What to do if your dog is growling

First of all, you have to consider the context of the situation. What is happening exactly ? Is there another dog ? A stranger ? A weird noise ? A very scary blue bin outside on the street ? What triggered your dog ?

You have to understand that if your dog is growling, it means he’s already expressed his discomfort before. Every person who has a dog should learn about the stress signals and how to approach a dog.

Thanks to this knowledge and the consideration of your dog’s limits, you’ll be able to develop an unfailing bond with him. He’ll know you’ll listen to him and you’ll know he’ll tell you when something is wrong. TRUST.

Your dog might be the best, he absolutely looooooves kids, sometimes he’ll want to be left alone, without being treated as a cuddly toy by the neighbor’s kids or having to play with them.

Speaking of games, your dog might want to play alone with his ball, that’s allowed. You’ll have to learn how to make the difference between his playing growls and when he means « let me play on my own », by observing his body language and attitude. Is he coming back or not? He growls while tugging, but what happens if you let it go? Is he running to the other side of the garden with his toy or is he waiting for you to do it again? It’s the same when he’s playing with another dog. Growlings are harmlessl interactions, as long as its intensity stays normal and his body language doesn’t show that he’s under pressure or that the other dog is annoying him. That’s why it’s important to keep an eye on your dog and know when to stop the game, before it gets out of hands.

In other situations, you’ll have to deal with your surroundings and quickly but calmly do something, to reduce the tension and keep the situation under control.

Ask the person to step back, to get their dog, ask the kids not to yell and run around your dog. Respect your dog’s limits and make sure people respect them too.

Then, reassure your dog, calmly and with confidence « Everything is ok, I got you! ». Thank him for warning you!

Showing your dog that you’re understanding won’t make him more aggressive or reactive, on the contrary, he’ll feel safe.

Educating children to dogs’ language is vital to avoid incidents. That’s why I offer workshops to structures welcoming children or to individuals, to teach them dog body language and bite prevention.

Keep it at growling level only

This article is about « normal » grunts for a dog.

If you’re facing a behaviour issue, it’s an entirely different situation.

A dog who doesn’t like when you touch his bowl, his toys, can be manageable as much as it can be a real problem. If you’re facing real resource guarding issues, it is necessary to take action correctly, so that this behavior isn’t reinforced and to avoid any incident.

If your dog seems reactive with other dogs, children… a professional help is vital to help your dog to be able to handle stressful situations and learn other ways to face it.

Don’t ignore behaviour issues thinking it will magically stops and everything will be fine. It won’t and it might even get worst…

Pay attention to every situation, every little details and call a dog trainer to get help and a real training program to modify your dog’s behaviour. You don’t have to be alone in this and we can always find a way !

Don’t hesitate to contact me !

The THANK YOUR DOG FOR GROWLING! article first appeared on Only Pawsitive Solutions.

A dog year equals X Human years:

Most people think that a dog year equals 7 Human years.

But it’s not as simple as that!

You have to consider the size and the breed. A chihuahua doesn’t age the same way as a Great Pyrenees or a German shepherd.

According to scientific studies, larger breeds tend to age faster than smaller breeds. Here’s an article about one of the studies: INSIDE SCIENCE.

Dog age chart

This chart shows you how to calculate your dog’s age.

Of course, factors like the breed, the environment, the diet and healthcare play a big role.

Short snouts breeds have more health risks than others, for example.

A bit more complicated than multiplying by 7, right? And that gap between big and small dogs is shocking after they turn 6.

This chart shows how important it is to keep in mind that dog age differently and that we need to pay attention to the signs, sometimes subtle, that our dog is aging.

Having a healthy aging dog

We should be taking care of our dog’s health at every age, but senior dogs deserve a special attention.

Regular check-ups with the vet help monitor your dog’s health and make sure everything is going well.

It’s not because your dog is old that we have to just accept helplessly that he’s limping, fat or grumpy. We need to make sure we do our best to provide them the attention they need.

Especially nowadays, with all the progress made in that field and the easy access to services like chiropractor, special diet, natural treatments for pain…

I’ll talk more about aging dogs in another article.

Calculate your dog’s age in human years

I’m pretty sure you already had an idea of how old is your dog.

Now that you’ve checked the chart, were you right or far from the truth?

Let me know in the comments!

The How old is my dog in human years? article first appeared on Only Pawsitive Solutions.

But why do we do it? Because we eat from a plate and then transpose this way of eating to our pet? Because it’s cleaner?

So, if you think about it for two minutes, you can see that the advantages are only for us. 

Because, when you think about it, dogs don’t care if they have a bowl or if they eat on the floor, it’s not a punishment for them.

So what do they have to gain from eating like us?

Honestly? Nothing!

In 20 seconds or 3 minutes, he’ll have devoured the same kibbles or wet food as the day before, without it soliciting anything from him except some chewing activity.

Yet, we talked about this, he needs more and the meal is the ideal moment for our dog to have some activity.

It takes time and energy for us to get a meal ready on our plate. We work to get money, that we use for grocery shopping, that then allows us to cook a meal. Then, we sit down and eat.

That’s quite a lot of activities to get there, right?

In nature, canines spend hours looking for food. Whether it’s by tracking, chasing, catching and ripping their prey apart, or by scavenging, before savoring the flesh and gnawing the bones.

Of course, our family dogs don’t have to do that and they’re not necessarily able to do it anymore, since they joined our homes decades ago (except for scavenging, of course, I bet some of you thought about your Doggo!).

But then, how do I feed my dog?

We talked about it, a dog needs 5 hours of activity per day, 7 if it’s a work dog.
(Article “Understand and respond to my dog’s needs”).

It’s not with a one-minute meal that he’ll satisfy his needs. What if I told you that you can turn this into 20 to 30 minutes?

Even better: what if I told you that it doesn’t require ANY effort from you?

Magic combo? I think so! And it’s also perfect for your dog, so don’t hesitate!

The « food all over the floor »/scavenging method:

First take a handful of kibble and sling it in a limited zone of your garden, so that Doggo can understand what’s going on, then you can gradually extend the zone. You’ll see him use his NOOSE and think it’s an exciting activity. Once again, it isn’t a punishment at all!

He might looks puzzled at first, so encourage him with a cheerful voice and show him one or two kibble on the ground. He’ll understand quickly. If you have a garden, it’s easy. If you live in an apartment or if it’s raining too much outside, you can do it on the kitchen floor or in your garage, or you can use a snuffle mat.

The snuffle mat:

Do it yourself or buy it in a pet store or online. Very interesting tool to buy (for example here) or to do yourself, with long ribbons made of a thick cloth, into which Doggo will have to stick his nose to find his food or treats.

In terms of activity, 20 minutes of food-searching are equal to around 2 hours of walking. Not bad, right?

The kong classic:

This interactive toy has become a must-have for dog owners and has saved many pieces of furniture, car seats and owner/dog duos! Made of very strong rubber, available in different sizes and shapes, the Kong is a sort of hollow cone that you can fill with food. The dog will then have to work to pull it out in order to eat it. He’ll have to think, use his tongue, his teeth and paws. It will keep him busy for a while, with a fun and intelligent activity.

The kong can be used for the meals but also to keep your dog busy while you’re away.

You can fill it with wet food, cream cheese/peanut butter/pumpkin puree/ bananas, mixed with kibble… leave some space so the air can get through it and your dog won’t risk any succion effect, and put it in the freezer for 30 minutes to make it harden, this way the work to get it out is a bit longer.

Make sure he can reach the food, so that it doesn’t become a frustrating activity.

If your dog is fast and finishes his Kong in 5 minutes, you can make it harder by attaching it to a rope on a doorknob. This way it will move and Doggo will have to work harder.

Depending on the amount of food you put inside, it can be considered as his meal or an extra.

The wobbler (kong) :

An another amazing tool by Kong ! That food dispenser will make your dog think and work with his paws or his nose to get his kibble out of the Wobbler. That can be a bit noisy when it’s rolling but it’s such a great tool.

The slow feeder dog bowl:

For dogs (and cats) who devour their food in two seconds and look at you as if it’s always been empty, here is a smart bowl. If you don’t want to scatter his kibble or to leave a Kong to your dog, this tool could help you a lot and calm down Doggo during meal time. You can look at this model as an example (but try to find a skid-proof model to avoid the bowl from being scattered all over the house).

The water bottle filled with kibble or treats:

Simply take an empty bottle, make a few holes in it, leave it open and it’ll be your dog’s mission to find how to get the kibble out of there. By making it roll, ripping it apart, shaking it…

What if I have several dogs?

Competition may speed up the pace of your dogs and this is not particularly good for their digestive transit and household peace! One of your dogs could be resource guarding food, so we need to make this safe for everyone.

Ideally, you should separate your dogs to be sure that each of them eats his share and that there are no fights.

This advice also works if you choose to keep feeding your dogs in a bowl

The benefits of feeding your dog without a bowl

My mom’s dog, 14 year-old, didn’t have a taste for eating, she had too much pain because of her age and the end of her life approaching. She used to stay away from her bowl. Putting a few pellets in the grass and encouraging her to look for it reawoke her curiosity and appetite. She had something to do of her day, other than laying down and sleeping. She started eating again without thinking about it. 

No matter your dog’s age, size, weight… Any dog will gain from being fed this way, because it stimulates them mentally. Don’t forget that during this time, he spends the activity time he needs intelligently and so satisfies his physiological needs.

It’s good for his mental and physical health! So ? When do you start ?

The DITCH THE BOWL! article first appeared on Only Pawsitive Solutions.

Traditional methods VS. soft methods

It is a nice thing to have a dog. Knowing how to educate her is a whole different story. If you believed it was an easy task, you now know (or will soon realize) that it is not necessarily the case. 

Nowadays, thanks to the Internet, you have access to dozens of blogs, and hundreds of videos teaching you how to educate a puppy or dog, a double-edged sword. 

You can quickly get lost in all this flow of sometimes contradictory information. 

Methods often vary depending on the person writing the article or making the video. 

Some succeeded in gathering a lot of attention, and are known across the globe, and not always for the well-being of our four-legged companions. 

Who’s the boss?

You have probably heard of Cesar Milan. Ultra mediatized in North America, his methods have gained attention across the pond and found many supporters in Europe. Years of experience, a humongous media budget, and results that you can showcase on the small screen. What else can you ask for?

How about that the experience has positive lasting results in the long term? That the methods respect the needs of our pets? 

I will not put Cesar Milan on trial, but certainly his methods. It has to be constructive! 

I know people who have been operating in the animal education field for decades, and who believed in those same methods even before the so called “Dog Whisperer” became famous and/or criticized. 

I even got trained by some of these people. 

Today they scream from the rooftops that the traditional methods based on concepts of dominance, hierarchy, pack, alpha dog, and advocating violence such as choke collars, hitting and shouting at dogs are not the right ways to educate the animals. There are techniques not rooted in fear and violence that can be deployed to obtain desired results.    

We now know psychological trauma is terrible for dogs. 

If dogs were not gripped by Stockholm syndrome, I believe most mistreated dogs would have abandoned their owner or responded with defensive bites. 

There’s definitely no wolf in the henhouse

It is scientifically proven that there are no alpha nor established hierarchy with dogs unlike with the wolves. 

Hence, showing your authority and alpha status to your dogs by eating before them, putting them on choke collars, or shouting does not make any sense based on scientific findings.  

These methods work 80% of the time because the animals quickly learn the consequences if they don’t obey. However, do they respect you? Would they follow your instructions without their leash and without you risking to lose your voice? 

Without a doubt, you would be ashamed by what happens in their beautiful heads when they are mistreated. 

Those who have tried both methods cannot deny that while some dogs might be extremely obedient, they are literally living a dog’s life. 

There used to be no other alternatives. Being authoritarian was the only recognized and effective method. 

Nowadays, we know better and can (must!) choose better! 

Patience and understanding are worth more than violence and abuse

It has been a while since positive reinforcement has made its way into the animal education world. 

Let’s just think about how lions, rhinoceros, pandas and orcas are able to voluntarily go to their trainers to receive care (shots, dental care, etc. – not even to play). 

The animals seem to enjoy it so much that they are begging for more  

Do you think physical strength has been used, or that the caretakers became the alpha figures of these large creatures who can easily snap them in two like twigs? 

With a lot of patience, understanding of the animals’ psychology, observation, and positive reinforcement, results can be yielded rather rapidly!

The biggest difference between the two methods? The animal’s motivation. 

In the traditional techniques, the animal is trying to avoid uncomfortable, scary and hurtful situations. With positive reinforcement, the animal seeks interactions and learning opportunities. 

Would you prefer to work for a salary, or to avoid being hit?  

When you put it that way, the decision is an easy one to make. 

The results are visible and lasting. They show a real connection between the human being and the animal. 

Yes, we can! 

By opting for respectful methods, you are making the choice to reinforce the desired behaviors rather than the unwanted ones. 

It is not only about giving treats to your dog! 

It is a change that will help you in your everyday life, not only with your interactions with animals, believe me! 

Please be reassured, it’s a fast acquired habit, and you will quickly see the transformation in your dog. 

With a personalized program to help you understand how it works inside your dog’s head, you will become his kind and understanding best friend. 

Your dog already loves you with your flaws, so what do you have to lose? (The answer is nothing, I promise). 

You actually have a lot to gain! 

Just like you would not jump on a lion and wrestle it into obedience, you shouldn’t physically force a dog to obey your commands such as preventing him from jumping on your guests.

Since these methods work for the Lion King, they should certainly work for Doggo!

The Choosing Positive Reinforcement article first appeared on Only Pawsitive Solutions.