(Insert 100 other examples here)

And every time, I internally cry and scream. Because we’re misreading our dogs.

Your dog isn’t stubborn. They either do not understand what you’re expecting of them or they can’t do what you want for XY reason or they are desperately trying to tell you that what you offer just does not work for them.

If you don’t understand the WHY behind the “no”, you’re not going to be able to communicate properly with your dog.

“My dog is stubborn, he wants to stop to sniff everything on our walks”.

Well, Mother Nature gave your dog this amazing super power and Doggy knows how to use it for their own satisfaction”. 

Maybe YOU see “taking a walk with Doggy” like “let’s walk 500 miles” but THEY are more interested in sniffing every inch of that street.

That’s why it’s so important that you understand and meet their needs.

Or maybe Doggy knows that once he’s done peeing and pooping, your turn around and go back home. So if we stop everywhere, we won’t go home and you won’t leave me alone to go to work.

Our dogs are oblivious of the reality to our Human life: leaving the house to go to work to make some money to pay your kibble and vet bills? What do you mean??

I’m not saying “Quit your job and spend your time with your dog, and who cares about money?” 

Just that it’s easier for us to try to understand their point of view and go from there.

“My dog knows this cue, but he’s stubborn, he won’t listen”:

Are you sure you trained your dog to respond to that cue in that specific context?

If Doggy is able to come when you ask them in your quiet living room, that’s great! But doing it in a busy park, with dogs running everywhere and a squirrel on each tree, it’s a completely different game.

It’s a bit like being able to swim 50m in less than 50 seconds in your swimming pool. No one will expect you to achieve the same time in the ocean on a stormy day.

You need to proof your training, by slowly adding difficulties in a controlled environment.

“My dog so stubborn, he won’t eat the crazy expensive food I bought him”:

Well, let me tell you that if you invite me for dinner and thought you’d please my French mouth with expensive champagne and caviar, you will think I’m stubborn too!

It’s a matter of taste and personal preferences!

Expensive (or not) is a Human conception. Doggy has no idea that you had to sell a kidney to buy this kangaroo raw food. 

Maybe he doesn’t like kangaroo. Maybe he just liked it last month when he stole your friend’s dog’s meal when you were visiting them.

Maybe he’s in pain and eating makes it worse. Maybe something is wrong.

Dogs are hedonist and opportunist creatures!

They naturally do what works for them and enjoy the opportunities that life offers them.

So, of course, if you want to turn right but it smells like chicken on your left, your dog will choose left.

He isn’t stubborn to not follow you, he’s just doing what works for him.

Asking them to act differently as soon as you want them to, I don’t think it’s fair and it’s definitely not realistic.

They’re defintely not trying to be the alpha, that myth has been debunked a long time. If you still have doubts about it, recommend Bary Eaton’s book Dominance in dogs: fact or fiction.

To me, saying “my dog is stubborn” is ignoring the real message that your dog is trying to tell you and missing out on an opportunity to communicate with your dog. 

I completely agree that sometimes we don’t have a choice, we need to “force” our dog to do what we need them to do.

Because we need to go home, because we need them to stay close to us, because we have to take them to the vet even if they don’t want to.

But acknowledging what your dog is telling you and trying to see things through his eyes will help you build a real connection with your dog. 

And that’s a key to a strong relationship based on mutual understanding and respect, in which your dog will follow you anywhere, out of trust and love, not fear and frustration.

If you struggle with some behaviours that you qualify as stubborn, reach out and schedule a session with me. I’m only an email away!

onlypawsitivesolutions@gmail.com

The Is my dog really stubborn ? article first appeared on Only Pawsitive Solutions.

Can you picture your dog, during his daily walks, sniffing every inch of the pavement (tracking) or his nose in the air (air scenting), catching a scent coming from God knows where, that we are not equipped to smell?

What does my dog smell?

So many things, my dear, so many things…

With more than 100 million olfactory receptors (Yes, more than 100 million!!), your dog’s nose is insanely powerful and puts us to shame, with our ridiculous 6 million.

Needless to say that he can smell a dead rat miles away and days old scents.

Food, people, other animals, very interesting smells for our furry friends but one of the most interesting things for them to sniff and analyze are hormones.

So many things can be told through hormones!

The gender of the other dog, of course, but also if he’s scared (fear can be detected through pee, poop and sweat!!), healthy, neutered or not…So don’t blame your dog for sniffing his friend’s rear end or even your Uncle Dave’s.

It might be inappropriate in the human world but for a dog, it’s basic behaviour and absolutely not rude.

Unless it lasts too long and/or if the other dog isn’t ok with that.

Then you’re absolutely right to call him away and go on with your walk.

And to help Uncle Dave think about something other than your dog shoving his nose between his legs, you can tell him about the Jacobson organ that dogs have! An organ acting like a second nose and meant especially to detect and analyze pheromones.

See, Uncle Dave? My dog is not a perv, he’s a superhero!

The 5 stars sense of smell:

Scientists say that the part of their brain devoted to analyzing our smelly world is 40 times more developed than ours.

Some breeds are well known for having a very developed sense of smell and can be used to detect explosives, truffles, drugs, human remains… (Never ending list). They’re naturally good at it and this ability makes them very good for the job they were bred to do.

In the last decade, we’ve developed new skills like detecting cancer, warning people with epilepsy of an incoming episode, detecting gluten… It’s amazing!

Obviously, not all dogs are born equals and gifted with this 5 stars nose.

Some breeds with a short snout, like French bulldogs, Boston terriers aren’t bred to become Police dogs but it doesn’t mean that they can’t use their nose and enjoy some nose games or man trailing!

Let them sniff!

Now that you know how powerful your dog’s nose is, I hope you understand why it’s so important to let him sniff and how it’s part of his biological needs.(Learn more about your dog’s needs HERE)

When your dog is sniffing your neighbor’s fence or a post, it’s a bit like you when you’re scrolling on your favorite social media or reading your email. Welcome to PEEBOOK, my friends.

Do you like to be disturbed when you’re scrolling through Facebook? Think about it the next time you feel the urge to pull on the leash or ask Doggo to “Leave it”.

Instead, try walking him with a long line if the environment allows it, and let him follow his nose.

Keep in mind that nose focused activities are about 8 times more tiring than physical activity. So it might be worth it to let your dog sniff however many fences and posts he wants, instead of walking 4 miles, right?

An easy way to stimulate their brain and nose, is to take them to new places and to let them discover new smells and use that beautiful tool they have!

A calming sense:

Sniffing is tapping into your dog’s brain, as we saw above. This innate behaviour also lowers the heart rate and has a calming effect on your dog.

That’s even something you can use if you see that your dog is a bit anxious and needs to relax.

Toss a few treats in a snuffle mat or on the grass, and let him find it. It’s called foraging and it’s extremely good for dogs, anxious or not!

Sniffing is also used as a calming signal, between dogs and other animals. You can probably remember your dog “pretending” to be sniffing the ground when another dog was approaching him. That calming behaviour is interpreted as “I mean no threat, I came in peace”.

Learn more about calming signals HERE.

Dogs can also use it when they want to disengage after playing, to let the other dog know that they need a break.

Happy nose, happy dog!

Such an interesting and powerful sense, right?!

Studies have shown that the more dogs are allowed to use their nose through different activities, the happier they are! And we all want our dear furry friends to be happy, right?

Using their brain and nose helps them feel more confident and calm.

Activities like foraging, scent detection and nose work are excellent for your dog’s mental health and happiness.

If you’re interested in starting a fun activity with your dog, join us for the online and live nose game class! Contact us for details!

The Who let the nose out? article first appeared on Only Pawsitive Solutions.

The myth of muzzle means bad dog:

Oh, the things we hear when we walk a muzzled dog: « Is he dangerous?”, “Poor dog”, “you should train him with a prong”… and people staring at you, crossing the streets, scared to be attacked by the evil beast.

There’s still a lot of stigmas around muzzled dogs. To most people, it still screams danger, pain, fear, failure…

It should mean “safety”, training and management.

Why use a dog muzzle?

We use muzzles to prevent the full use of a dog’s mouth. It’s a temporary tool we use while working on behaviour modification. Depending on the issue, it can take a long time to modify a behaviour, so meanwhile we limit the risks by using a muzzle.

Did you know that there are a lot of reasons why dogs wear muzzles?

• Reactivity, of course
• Eats random things he finds
• High prey drive (with full predatory sequence or reaching the kill)
• A cue for others to give space
• Public transports
• Visits to the vet or the groomer
• …

It shouldn’t be used to stop a dog from barking (and spoiler alert: it wouldn’t work on the issue).

Are muzzles bad for dogs?

Definitely not! Almost every dog wears a harness or/and a collar nowadays, muzzles are just another tool you can use to keep your dog and others safe.

If you choose the right muzzle, adjust it properly and if you desensitize your dog to wear his muzzle, it won’t be a problem for him.

And just to be clear, using a muzzle won’t make your dog aggressive (if you use it properly, obviously).

I really think we should train every single dog to be comfortable wearing a muzzle, because we might need it one day and it will probably be too late to take the time to desensitize him.

Imagine if your dog gets hit by a car and becomes aggressive because of the pain. We’d be adding a lot of stress by using a muzzle to stay safe if he’s not used to it.

Muzzles are not made for extended and/or unsupervised use. That, could definitely dangerous!

DOG MUZZLE MEANS SAFETY:

What a relief to know that you can walk your dog without him eating whatever he can find on the ground, or risking to bite another dog or a stranger.

The relief it brings to the handler is huge and it impacts the dog a lot. Less stress on the leash and in the human’s body language will send a good message to the dog. Plus, usually, it means more freedom for the dog.

Everybody is more relaxed.

Personally, I’m very happy when people decide to cross the stress when they see me with a muzzled dog. It means they don’t feel safe around dogs and might react the wrong way if my dog does anything, or that they understand that we might be struggling. No matter the reason why they cross, I always thank them.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT MUZZLE FOR YOUR DOG:

In pet stores or on the Internet, there’s a lot of choices. Not every muzzle is the right one, though.

I find that basket muzzles are the only ones offering enough comfort for dogs so I’m going to focus on this kind of dog muzzles.

What to look for in a dog muzzle?

Here are the things that matter a lot when choosing a dog muzzle:

• Comfort (your dog can breathe, drink, eat, pant, not painful, not too heavy)
• Bite-proof if your dog is a high bite risk
• Scavenging proof (more front coverage needed)
• Easy to use

What kind of dog muzzle should I buy?

Just like for collars, harnesses, leashes…There are a lot of options when it comes to choosing a dog muzzle. But not every muzzle is safe for your dog and others.

Dog muzzles I recommend and why:

Basket type muzzles prevent your dog from biting but allows him dog to drink, pant, vomit and eat treats.

It looks like a cage around your dog’s nose and exists in different materials. I’ll give some pros and cons for each type of muzzles.

• Metal/wire: +: strong and durable. –: not good for very cold weather and can look scary. Brand: Ray allen wire basket muzzle
• Hard plastic muzzles: Baskerville is the main brand but there are others like the muzzle movement + affordable, durable. – not 100% bite proof
• Biothane: Bumas is the most famous brand. + lots of options and color choices, less scary than traditional muzzles, light, easy to clean. – can be expensive

Please, note that few muzzles are 100% bite proof for very high bite risk dogs.

Dog muzzles I don’t recommend and why:

• Leather:  + flexible. Be careful with the air flow. – not great with water and rainy weather
• Vinyl dog muzzles: + transparent so allows good communication , – ventilation issues, not good for hot and humid weather
• Fabric muzzles: the nylon muzzles should be use for emergency cases, as it doesn’t allow your dog to drink, pant or vomit. It’s often the ones that are used at the vets or groomers, and it’s definitely not the best for the dog.

What size of dog muzzle should I choose?

It should be well fitted, to avoid getting in his eyes.

If the muzzle is too small or too narrow, your dog won’t be able to pant and that will add some stress, or even can be dangerous if it’s hot outside.

If it’s too big, it might be moving too much.

We usually tend to go for too small, with the snout touching the muzzle. Not good!

PRO TIP with hard plastic muzzles:

• If the size seems good but there’s still something “wrong” or if too wide but long enough, you might need to dip it in boiling water to shape it the way you need it. After 2 minutes, press it to make it narrower, longer, shorter…)
• You can adjust the height or protect sensitive skins by padding the muzzle on some spots (where it sits on the nose).

Muzzle training your dog with positive reinforcement:

Shoving the muzzle on your dog’s face and let him get used to it is not an option in positive reinforcement.

Muzzle means good thing

We want our dogs to be happy to see the muzzle and enjoy wearing it. We’re going to train them and create that positive emotional response.

Pro tip: As every new training, start in a distraction free and stress free environment. Every training session should last less than 3 minutes (can be less!). Repetition is the key!

For each step below, it will be very important that you pay attention to your dog’s body language. He should be relaxed, all along. If not, go a step back or try to figure out what is making him nervous.

Step 1:

Introduce the muzzle by simply showing it to your dog, say YES and give him a treat while hiding the muzzle behind your back. Seeing the muzzle = treats, muzzle = good! Repeat 10 times, 5 times a day, to build the muscle memory.

Step 2:

Leave the muzzle on the floor, for your dog to sniff. Mark and reward every sniff, to make this new object become super interesting. Take the muzzle away and stop giving treats. Repeat 10 times 5 times a day.

Step 3:

Use a plastic container (yogurt, plant pot…) and spread some cream cheese or peanut butter on the bottom. Let your dog lick it, slowly getting used to have his nose in a closed space. Repeat 5 times a day.

By going slowly, one step at a time, we’re training stress free and setting ourselves up for success.

Muzzle up:

Now that your dog is happy to see to see the muzzle and OK to have his nose stuffed in a container, we can start phase 2 and get the muzzle on him. SLOWLY!

Step 4:

We’ll start by clipping his muzzle straps LOOSELY around his neck, while giving him treats, for a minute or less, depending on how he’s doing (body language!!)

Unclip it and stop giving him treats. Repeat multiple times throughout the day.

Step 5:

Once your dog is all good with the 4 previous steps and happy to see the muzzle, we can start having him placing his nose in it BY HIMSELF.

Lure your dog by placing a treat at the end of the muzzle, so that he has to put his snout through the muzzle to get it. Once his nose is in the muzzle mark with YES and give him the treat, remove gently the muzzle.

Repeat 10 times if your dog is engaged and happy. Repeat 5 times throughout the day.

Step 6:

Repeat step 5 twice and if your dog is good, then on the 3rd time present the muzzle without the treat (no more luring!). Once your dog places his nose in the muzzle, say YES and give him a treat through the muzzle while he’s still inside. Repeat 10 times 5 times a day.

Step 7:

We’ll process in the same way as above in step 6 but this time we will wait 2 seconds before saying YES, once your dog places his nose in the muzzle, to build duration. Mark and reinforce. Repeat 5 times 2 seconds, then 5 times 3 seconds…up to 10 seconds.

If your dog disengages, then go one step back. Don’t push it, we’re going at his pace!

Repeat multiple times throughout the day.

Step 8:

Now that Doggo is good with his snout in the muzzle for 10 seconds and calmly waiting for your YES and the treat that comes after, we’re going to be able to start clipping the straps around his neck.

Spread some cream cheese or peanut butter on the inside of his muzzle, for him to lick. Present the muzzle as we were doing on step 7 and while he’s licking, attach the straps around his neck. Once it’s done say YES and give a treat through the muzzle.

Same process as step 7, repeat 5 times for 1 second, then 2…up to 10 seconds, to build duration.

Once again: keep a close eye on your dog’s body language, keep it short and fun for him.

Step 9:

No more cream cheese or PB, we just present the muzzle, wait for him to place his snout inside, secure the straps, mark and reward with a treat.

Step 10:

Generalize using the muzzle in different places and do fun things while he’s wearing his muzzle.

Practice his favorite tricks , take him to place he loves, let him play with his best friends while wearing his muzzle for a few minutes.

Don’t put the muzzle on only in tricky situations!

Pimp your dog muzzle

A muzzle doesn’t need to look scary, it can look fun if you want.

Add some stickers, strass, any decoration that won’t bother your dog and send the message « I am fancy and fun, not dangerous »!

Feel free to comment, share and like this article!

The ARE DOG MUZZLES JUST FOR BITING DOGS? article first appeared on Only Pawsitive Solutions.

Trigger stacking refers to an accumulation of stress that can push the dog to react « suddenly and without warning ».

Basically, It’s the snowball effect: when a lot of little things add up to become a big thing, just like for us.

During the day or even a shorter timespan, your dog has been accumulating different stressors and then BOOM! He lashes out because altogether it’s just been too much for him.

Stressors and triggers:

It could be anything causing a negative emotional state for your dog. It’s important to identify it.

Here is a non exhaustive list of triggers and stressors: a loud bus in the street, kids crying next door, dogs barking in the park, crows at the window, a disturbing smell, a cat on the other side of the street, people fighting, skateboards, bikes, strangers trying to pet him, a fire alarm in the building but also the thunder, the rain, the wind, the cold…

Internal stressors such as hunger, thirst, pain, lack of sleep have also a big impact on our dogs and can definitely act as a stressor.

Boredom can also be very stressful for a dog, small or big, young or not. Make sure you reach your dog’s needs!

Can you make a list of your dog’s triggers?

Keep in mind that:

• Every dog reacts differently, as they all have different THRESHOLD.

• Triggers have different intensities for dogs (It can depend on the size, the distance, the age of the dog, his past experiences…)

• Every dog recovers differently after being triggered.

How do I know my dog is stressed?

Dogs exhibit their stress through their body language. If pay attention to your dog’s body language and learn how to understand it, you’ll be able to evaluate his stress level.

Here is a very nice book by Lili Chin to start learning about body language : Doggie language and if you want to learn more about it, be sure to check out my ONLINE COURSES.

Susan Garrett, a world famous dog behaviour consultant, invented the acronym TEMP, to help us remember what to pay attention to. TEMP stands for

– Tail,

– Ears and Eyes, 

– Mouth, 

– Posture

What can I do to avoid trigger stacking?

First, remove the trigger or the dog from the situation.

Management is crucial to avoid the stressors and keep your dog under threshold, as much as possible.

Be sure to regularly empty your dog’s emotional cup. It will help him get rid of the tensions. 

How? Simply get him to play, sniff, ask him tricks he knows and likes, take him for a decompression walk (cemetery, deep in the woods, on a secluded beach, in the mountains..). Anything that would create a positive emotional response.

That will de-stress your dog and refill his emotional cup with good energy.

How training can help with trigger stacking?

As mentioned previously, it’s important to list the triggers. Once you’ve identified it, you can start working on it using positive reinforcement techniques.

First we’ll use desensitization to lower the intensity of the trigger. We’ll start with enough distance to keep the dog under threshold.

Then we’ll use counter-conditioning, to get a positive emotional response instead) to minimize the stressors in your dog’s life. We can use treats, toys, life rewards, anything you dog likes and that will have a positive impact on him.

Learning some managing tools is also crucial to learn how to get way from critical situations.

Hiring a R+ dog trainer to help you will definitely make a difference, as it’s important to learn about YOUR dog’s body language, be sure to identify when he’s anxious and needs you to get him away from a situation and then to be sure to have the right timing once you’re training,…

CONTACT ME today to help you with your dog’s problematic behaviour(s).

The Trigger stacking article first appeared on Only Pawsitive Solutions.

It was supposed to be a quiet hour there, after lunch time. But we ended up with 12 dogs at the park.

And to those who know how to read a dog, it was pretty obvious that not all of them were having fun.

Worst 2 of them were basically overwhelmed or purely terrified…And it ended up in a fight…

Not all dogs want to go or should go to dog parks

Before deciding to bring your dog to dog parks, carefully consider if your dog is a good fit.

If you think that taking your puppy to a dog park will help him socialize with other dogs, well, you’re wrong.

A good socialization is a positive experience and a positive experience. Dog parks are far from being the good place for that. You can’t control everything and there’s no way you’re 100% sure that everything is going to be fine for your dog.

If your puppy get overwhelmed and scared, you might end up with a big problem later.

Will MY dog be OK in a dog park?

If your dog is super social, loves every other dogs, don’t mind being chased and knows when to go away from other dogs, then you’re fine.

You have to acknowledge that dog parks are a closed space, full of different kind of dogs and humans, that you mostly don’t know.

Sadly, for some dogs the dog park is the only activity they have within the day. So obviously, they are full of pent up energy once they get there.

They’re going to play roughly, eventually harass other dogs, chase, bite…

Is YOUR dog ready for the dog park?

Senior dogs, skittish dogs, puppies or dogs who can stand being around other dogs but don’t particularly enjoy that, would be better out of this crazy circus.

Senior dogs are usually done playing like crazy with random dogs in a closed space. If your dog might be in pain, if he doesn’t like too much excitement… He could get anxious and become reactive pretty fast.

Skittish dogs are just going to feel overwhelmed and either freeze, run away from other dogs or become aggressive. The “immersion” technique doesn’t work, it can only make things worst. Imagine if I bring you to a place full of spiders, snakes, clowns or whatever scares you and so you get used to it in the end and don’t fear them anymore Do you think that we’ll work? (Spoiler alert: it never does).

This is just torture for them. And I’m pretty sure you don’t want to torture your dog.(Right??)

Help your skittish dog: hire a R+ trainer

If you want to help him feel better around other dogs or other people, call a positive dog trainer. There are better ways to help your dog!

If you just rescued a dog, take the time to get to know him before bringing him to a dog park. See how he is with one dog, then two…Don’t just hope for the best!

Better safe than sorry!

My dog doesn’t have friends

It’s a common mistake to think that every dog should be friends with any dog. Some dogs, just like Humans, are not very social, and we should be ok with that.

Don’t force your dog to interact, let him choose if he wants dog company or not. You might turn a “not interested, thanks” dog into a “Get the flock away from me” dog.

Observe his behaviour and understand what he’s telling you.

Learn about dog body language:

Any dog owner should learn how to read a dog and be able to recognize canine stress signals.

“Listen to your dog’s whisper so he doesn’t have to shout.” — Chirag Patel, Domesticated Manners

Do you speak dog?

A webinar about dog body language is included in my online courses, as it’s essential to be able to read your dog. For me, it’s the key to create a very strong bond and always be there for your dog when he needs you.

Are they really playing?

Another important thing is to be able to analyse the play, to see if it’s appropriate play behaviour or if should give your dog a break.

• A positive play should have breaks, to breathe, sniff, pee, dig…
• A positive play should be even: it’s not always the same dog who initiates the play, dogs should take turns at being the hunter and the prey.
• A positive play should show respect when a dog asks for a break. No one is harassing no one, no bullies.

If every dog owner knew how to read dog body language, the world would be a better place (and kids won’t be the first victims of dog bites but that’s an other story…)

There are a lot of times where you’re going to need to get out of the park, either because your dog doesn’t behave well or because other dogs don’t, but the owners don’t get it.

They would be almost no fight in dog parks if everybody was paying attention to their dog instead of being on their phone (or their computer yeah I’ve seen that one time. Honestly I could have left with his friendly dog who wanted to be with humans but not with other dogs) or talking to other Pawrents.

Practice your recall:

Now that you’ve read all that, if you still think that taking your dog to dog parks is a good idea for him, this is not it. You still got to take some precautions!

Having a good recall on your dog in a distracting environment is absolutely essential if you take your dog to a park. Practice it outside, with a long line.

Don’t expect your dog to come right away if didn’t train him before.

Once again, better be safe than sorry!

Safest options: a group walk? Private playdates?

If you’re not so sure about dog parks but still want Doggo to interact with a few friends, here’s a wonderful option for you both.

Why not joining an on-leash walking group? It might be a safe option to assess and improve how your dog feels and behaves around other dogs.

Maybe private playdates with one or two of his buddies or long-leash sniffari are really what Doggo prefers, after all. Let him tell you what he prefers and make his choices.

Dog parks, OK, but…

Just a quick reminder: bringing your doggie to dog parks doesn’t mean you get to skip the walks and other activities he needs every day (and I talk about it HERE! Isn’t it fantastic? ).

The Dog parks: yes or no? article first appeared on Only Pawsitive Solutions.

What to do before bringing Doggo to his new forever home :

It always is a mix of joy, fear and excitement to bring a dog back home, especially when you have your heart set on offering him a better life that the one he lived until now.

• Handle your environment, is one of the essential rules when you have a dog. « Better safe than sorry ». By anticipating the eventual problems and getting rid of the causes, you will take a big thorn out of your side and enjoy your dog’s arrival more.

Before taking him home, make sure that your home is dog proof.

1. You don’t want them to eat your shoes? Put them away! Problem avoided!
2. Don’t leave food lying around close to nose or paws!
3. You don’t want them to go upstairs? Set up a baby gate at the bottom of the staircase.
4. Your garden doesn’t have a fence? Maybe you can fence a small part in, if you can’t do the whole garden.

Don’t expect your dog to be perfect and to understand all the house’s rules in 48 hours! It’s mission impossible and it would be putting a lot of pressure on them.

• Buy all the supplies that you will need: leash, harness (preferably in a Y shape, more adapted to dogs’ morphology), flat collar, a tag with your phone number, bowls, food, basket, cushion, a few toys (balls, rope, toys that go « pouik pouik »…), snacks, chewing bone, Kong, grooming supplies…
• Prepare their own space: where they can settle down without being disturbed, without being in the way… You can make this spot positive by giving them a bone to chew on, for them to enjoy taking some alone and quiet time.

You can buy/make them a small park big enough, where you can set up their water, their bed, toys and where they can move, turn around… This way, you allow them to have his own space, where they will feel safe. You can use baby gates, for example.

• Make sure that every person living here understand that your dog will need time to adjust, that you will have to give him/her time, and space.
• Explain to your kids that they can’t interact with the dog all the time, for his well-being (and their safety). Always keep an eye on them when they’re with the dog. It’s time to teach them good manners with a dog (no face to face, don’t pet the head, no tight hug, we leave him eat/sleep quietly…). So many good habits that it is vital to know and that I approach in PECCRAM (bite prevention) workshops.

• Don’t plan any visit at your home or outside, even if you already love him so much that you’re dying to show him to everybody. It’s important that he spends a little time with only you and the people living with you.
• I stronlgly recommend to spend the first 3 days at home with him, to allow him to make a transition between his life at the shelter, that he lived until now, and this new environment. Being alone could be really stressful. It is also a crucial moment to connect with your dog, lay the foundations of your relationship. It’s primordial to be there for him.
• Before leaving the shelter, listen carefully to the tips and information that the shelter’s staff give you. They’re the ones who took care of your dog and got to know him. Ask them all your questions. Their experience will be precious for you. They will especially tell you at what times he was fed, how much, so that you can keep this routine, that it is important to observe before changing it progressively if necessary.

The importance of positive reinforcement:

The first days are very important to connect with your new dog. Adopt positive reinforcement methods, based on understanding and kindness. To understand why this is an important choice to make, I invite you to read this article.

Have some treats with you, something really appetizing, to make him want to stay near you and reward every behavior you want to reinforce (lying on his bed, watching the cat without running after him, going to the door to ask to go outside, peeing outside, letting a bike pass without barking…), or to reassure him in case of momentary stress. Talk to him with a lot of kindness so that your voice is a link between him and you, to tell him that what he’s doing is great, that you’re very satisfied with him. Discover which is his favourite toy...

Many tools that will be useful to calmly and respectfully educate him.

Put yourself in his paws:

Remember: if you’re very happy with his arrival in your home, your dog, however, hasn’t understood that you’re his Human for life, yet, and that this house is now his too. It takes time to adjust, even more for a rescue dog, who comes with sometimes no fun baggage and his/her own traumas.

He might appear very shy, hide and avoid you, or he might stick to you like glue and be overjoyed. You’ll need to accept his reaction and adopt a good attitude, that allows him to calmly relax.

Arriving from the shelter: How to make it a « home sweet home » moment !

Your goal: each experience has to be positive, so that the adaptation is optimal.

It starts with a ride:

It all starts as soon as he gets in the car. You have to be ready! Protect your seats in case he isn’t used to be in a car, make sure he stays calm, maybe take a chewing bone to keep him busy.

This is it! Time for him to discover his new home!

Welcome home!

On a leash, show him the outdoors first: the garden, the street, so that he can relax a bit. Give him time to relieve himself, by leading him where you want him to do it and praising him when it’s done. He will start integrating that this is where he can relieve himself, and it’s very important.

Then take him inside and show him around the house, still on a leash so you can handle your dog and prevent problems. It’s important to go for that stroll in peace while orally positivizing every discovery. If he sniffs your plant without trying to eat the leaves, congratulate him (it’s exactly what we want, isn’t it?). Keeping him on a leash allows you to not run after him shouting « no », « eh », « stoooop » and inspect the damage. Anticipation is the key!

Your future new friends:

– If you already have a dog at home: introduce them outside, on a loose leash, even if they’ve already seen each other at the shelter or somewhere else. Don’t leave them face to face, let them move a little. Go for a walk in the neighborhood for a while before going back home with the newcomer, while the other dog stays in the garden or keeps walking. Your first dog needs to accept the new one, and the new dog needs to understand that he/she wasn’t here first. It isn’t a question of dominance but of respect!

– If you have a cat: keep your dog on a leash and allow your cat to discover this newcomer in a safe place for him and from where he can escape. A baby gate at the bottom of the staircase, a cat scratching post high enough so that he can take refuge there and observe without risk… Don’t hold him in your arms, don’t put him in a kennel.

– In both cases:

• Congratulate your pets if they adopt a quiet and pacifist attitude. Living together can take several days of adapting, be patient and keep your eyes open.
• Make them sleep in two separate spots the first nights.

By letting them meet and live their first days without problem, you’re giving them the chance to have a beautiful relationship.

Recipe for a smooth first day:

Keep a leash on your dog the first day, so that you can catch them if necessary, even inside it’s important!

Don’t let them have access to the whole house, close the doors, to keep an eye on them, limit the risk of bad behavior. Open bit by bit, after several days without problem.

Limiting their space the first days can be very reassuring for a dog, especially if you have to leave them alone. They will feel less lost and safer.

By establishing their main living place near you, you allow them to establish their comfort zone there and that this is where you the most of time in the house.

The 3-3-3 rule of adopting a rescue dog :

3 days, 3 weeks, 3 months.

Learn to understand YOUR dog:

Even if you’ve had dogs and have a good knowledge, your dog, like you, is unique. It’s important to learn to know them.

Pay attention to them : it’s important to see what triggers a reaction from them, what they seems to like, what seems to bother them… Their body language is very meaningful, learn how to interpret it. Observe their behaviours, postures…

They probably will discover things that seem normal to you. The TV, the lawn mower, kids shouting, the dishwasher making noise… Remember to reassure them about these discoveries, so that they associates them to something positive.

Have you ever heard about calming signals? They are a part of animal communication and every dog owner should know and respect them. I suggest you to read this article.

It’s up to you to try to understand your dog before asking them to understand you. What are they saying to you in their dog language? What emotion are they expressing by behaving such and such way? Once you’ve understood them, you can have an adapted reaction, offer them something else or reassure them if necessary…

Understand your dog’s needs:

By answering their needs, you will allow them to open up, make sure that they are mentally and physically satisfied. This article will help you to understand his needs. Establish a routine so that your dog has a framework. Take them out regularly, feed them regularly and preferably outside of his bowl.

After the first 48 hours, it’s important to start setting the house rules. Even if their little eyes full of love or fear make you want to give in, remember that the limits need to be clearly but positively set, for their well-being and yours.

Don’t think « He is going to sleep on my bed the first week » if you don’t want them to do it later. It will be even harder for them, after that, to integrate your new rule. « One day I’m fed at the table, the next day I’m told off because I’m begging. Where’s the logic in that? » And he’s right, there is none…

Not knowing when they’re allowed or not is troubling for them. If you change your mind from one day to the next, they will be confused and it will lead to stress. Which is far from ideal, especially for a rescue dog.

A dog needs love and compassion as much as a living environment that makes them feel safe.

He needs to understand how you work, what is allowed, what isn’t, and if it’s all clear, he’ll understand and you will then have established a stable relationship with them.

With love, patience and a good understanding of what’s going on in his head, you’ll develop a very strong and unique connection with your dog.

Know how to ask a professional:

Sometimes, your love and patience, aren’t enough to make certain traumas disappear, causing behavior problems. Don’t hesitate to ask for help to a dog trainer or a dog behaviour consultant, before the situation gets worse or you’re completely overwhelmed.

Taking dog training lessons, based on positive methods, can also be very useful, especially if it’s your first dog.

Shelters sometimes work with professionals offering a free session or at a reduced price, to help you make sure everything goes well. That’s what I used to do for Landerneau’s rescue center (29, France), where I volunteered several times a week.

By putting into practice all these advice and with all your good will to offer the good life he deserves to your new companion, you’re ready for a wonderful adventure!

The Get ready to bring your rescue home article first appeared on Only Pawsitive Solutions.

Often misinterpreted, growling is seen as a behavior that needs to be reprimanded, that we can’t tolerate.

For a lot of people, a dog shouldn’t growl whatever the situation is.

How many times have you told your dog off for growling or snarling?

Do you remember what the situation was? Did you try to understand why he did this and what he was trying to tell you?

I growl, therefore I say…

A dog doesn’t growl just for fun.

Growling or snarling are part of a dog’s language. So it’s normal for him to use it to communicate with you or an other dog.

If he has to go there, it usually is to express an underlying problem. It can be discomfort, embarrassment, stress or fear, pain… If you only see aggression in it, you’re forgetting 3/4 of the story. You need to know what’s making him act like this to understand what’s happening, the feeling behind this behavior.

He’s warning you that something isn’t right for him, you have to listen and make sure that it stops.

Yet, too often, the contrary happens.

A dog who’s growling is met with a « shhhh », « heyyyy! » « no!! » and bam! a pull on the leash… Huge mistake!

You’ll have to understand that this growl is already close to the end of his expression scale. Unfortunately, you missed all the other signs he has in his canine language).

Never punish a warning sign

Punishing a growl or any other early WARNING SIGNS (snarling, snapping…any warning behaviour), you’re telling your dog « I don’t care about your feelings, be quiet ». You’re not taking away his stress, in fact you’re probably increasing it! Because now he thinks that he can’t trust you, as you don’t listen to him and you become psychologically violent.

Sure, your « shhh » or your pull on his leash made Doggo stop. And he has understood, he looks guilty, right?

Well, except in his head, that’s not what’s happening at all.

In your dog’s mind :

There’s often a huge difference between what you think you’re teaching your dog and what actually happens in his mind.

What is your dog learning? That expressing clearly that he’s not feeling well and wants to be left alone, is useless. That you’re unable to keep him psychologically safe by making this difficult situation stop, although it forces him to growl and snarl…

Let’s imagine that your dog growls toward a group of kids running and yelling close to him. Punishing him will only reinforce his discomfort. In your dog’s mind, he has even more reasons to dislike it, « first, they yell, they run, and then I get kicked because of them ». Result: kids are a nightmare, I hate them. Now you have a dog who will see every child as a monster.

If you scold your dog, what he probably thinks now is: « I’ve already shown my Human that I didn’t like this situation, by licking my nose, turning my head, looking away, I’ve ended up growling a little and all I’ve got was him pulling on my leash and scolding me… What else can I do to make him understand that I NEED him to make this stop?e

What do you think will happen, if warning you doesn’t work, since « I’m not listened to and, even worse, I’m being punished »? What happens if the situation doesn’t give him an escape?

Worst of all, if you manage to suppress the warning signs your dog was giving, you’ll end up with a dog who bites without warning. Because your dog has learned that it’s not safe to warn, so he won’t warn anymore.

So what option does he have left?

Biting.

Growling is warning, and warning is a good thing!

Biting…

Not really the sweetest option, right? A biting dog is a dog who came to understand that all the other warning signs he sent were useless since nothing changed.

So now you have a dog who will bite without warning. Awesome, right?

But unfortunately, you thought that, as your dog stopped growling, everything was ok. Until the accident.

In your dog’s mind, things are simple -> I talk, nothing happens. I snap/bite, everything stops. Ok, then biting/snapping is the best tool for things to change. Noted, that’s what I’ll do now, thanks for letting me know what to do to be listened to.

It’s not really what we want, right?

A dog who doesn’t warn anymore is the worst scenario. It’s the famous « he wasn’t aggressive before ». Well, yes, but he tried to warn you with all the signs he could use. You didn’t listen/understand.

And because of this lack of understanding, he became unpredictable, like a time bomb, ready to explode.

That’s why every dog pawrent should learn about dog body language and know how to read a dog. Here is a good book to start learning about body language Lili Chin – Doggie body language.

What to do if your dog is growling

First of all, you have to consider the context of the situation. What is happening exactly ? Is there another dog ? A stranger ? A weird noise ? A very scary blue bin outside on the street ? What triggered your dog ?

You have to understand that if your dog is growling, it means he’s already expressed his discomfort before. Every person who has a dog should learn about the stress signals and how to approach a dog.

Thanks to this knowledge and the consideration of your dog’s limits, you’ll be able to develop an unfailing bond with him. He’ll know you’ll listen to him and you’ll know he’ll tell you when something is wrong. TRUST.

Your dog might be the best, he absolutely looooooves kids, sometimes he’ll want to be left alone, without being treated as a cuddly toy by the neighbor’s kids or having to play with them.

Speaking of games, your dog might want to play alone with his ball, that’s allowed. You’ll have to learn how to make the difference between his playing growls and when he means « let me play on my own », by observing his body language and attitude. Is he coming back or not? He growls while tugging, but what happens if you let it go? Is he running to the other side of the garden with his toy or is he waiting for you to do it again? It’s the same when he’s playing with another dog. Growlings are harmlessl interactions, as long as its intensity stays normal and his body language doesn’t show that he’s under pressure or that the other dog is annoying him. That’s why it’s important to keep an eye on your dog and know when to stop the game, before it gets out of hands.

In other situations, you’ll have to deal with your surroundings and quickly but calmly do something, to reduce the tension and keep the situation under control.

Ask the person to step back, to get their dog, ask the kids not to yell and run around your dog. Respect your dog’s limits and make sure people respect them too.

Then, reassure your dog, calmly and with confidence « Everything is ok, I got you! ». Thank him for warning you!

Showing your dog that you’re understanding won’t make him more aggressive or reactive, on the contrary, he’ll feel safe.

Educating children to dogs’ language is vital to avoid incidents. That’s why I offer workshops to structures welcoming children or to individuals, to teach them dog body language and bite prevention.

Keep it at growling level only

This article is about « normal » grunts for a dog.

If you’re facing a behaviour issue, it’s an entirely different situation.

A dog who doesn’t like when you touch his bowl, his toys, can be manageable as much as it can be a real problem. If you’re facing real resource guarding issues, it is necessary to take action correctly, so that this behavior isn’t reinforced and to avoid any incident.

If your dog seems reactive with other dogs, children… a professional help is vital to help your dog to be able to handle stressful situations and learn other ways to face it.

Don’t ignore behaviour issues thinking it will magically stops and everything will be fine. It won’t and it might even get worst…

Pay attention to every situation, every little details and call a dog trainer to get help and a real training program to modify your dog’s behaviour. You don’t have to be alone in this and we can always find a way !

Don’t hesitate to contact me !

The THANK YOUR DOG FOR GROWLING! article first appeared on Only Pawsitive Solutions.

But why do we do it? Because we eat from a plate and then transpose this way of eating to our pet? Because it’s cleaner?

So, if you think about it for two minutes, you can see that the advantages are only for us. 

Because, when you think about it, dogs don’t care if they have a bowl or if they eat on the floor, it’s not a punishment for them.

So what do they have to gain from eating like us?

Honestly? Nothing!

In 20 seconds or 3 minutes, he’ll have devoured the same kibbles or wet food as the day before, without it soliciting anything from him except some chewing activity.

Yet, we talked about this, he needs more and the meal is the ideal moment for our dog to have some activity.

It takes time and energy for us to get a meal ready on our plate. We work to get money, that we use for grocery shopping, that then allows us to cook a meal. Then, we sit down and eat.

That’s quite a lot of activities to get there, right?

In nature, canines spend hours looking for food. Whether it’s by tracking, chasing, catching and ripping their prey apart, or by scavenging, before savoring the flesh and gnawing the bones.

Of course, our family dogs don’t have to do that and they’re not necessarily able to do it anymore, since they joined our homes decades ago (except for scavenging, of course, I bet some of you thought about your Doggo!).

But then, how do I feed my dog?

We talked about it, a dog needs 5 hours of activity per day, 7 if it’s a work dog.
(Article “Understand and respond to my dog’s needs”).

It’s not with a one-minute meal that he’ll satisfy his needs. What if I told you that you can turn this into 20 to 30 minutes?

Even better: what if I told you that it doesn’t require ANY effort from you?

Magic combo? I think so! And it’s also perfect for your dog, so don’t hesitate!

The « food all over the floor »/scavenging method:

First take a handful of kibble and sling it in a limited zone of your garden, so that Doggo can understand what’s going on, then you can gradually extend the zone. You’ll see him use his NOOSE and think it’s an exciting activity. Once again, it isn’t a punishment at all!

He might looks puzzled at first, so encourage him with a cheerful voice and show him one or two kibble on the ground. He’ll understand quickly. If you have a garden, it’s easy. If you live in an apartment or if it’s raining too much outside, you can do it on the kitchen floor or in your garage, or you can use a snuffle mat.

The snuffle mat:

Do it yourself or buy it in a pet store or online. Very interesting tool to buy (for example here) or to do yourself, with long ribbons made of a thick cloth, into which Doggo will have to stick his nose to find his food or treats.

In terms of activity, 20 minutes of food-searching are equal to around 2 hours of walking. Not bad, right?

The kong classic:

This interactive toy has become a must-have for dog owners and has saved many pieces of furniture, car seats and owner/dog duos! Made of very strong rubber, available in different sizes and shapes, the Kong is a sort of hollow cone that you can fill with food. The dog will then have to work to pull it out in order to eat it. He’ll have to think, use his tongue, his teeth and paws. It will keep him busy for a while, with a fun and intelligent activity.

The kong can be used for the meals but also to keep your dog busy while you’re away.

You can fill it with wet food, cream cheese/peanut butter/pumpkin puree/ bananas, mixed with kibble… leave some space so the air can get through it and your dog won’t risk any succion effect, and put it in the freezer for 30 minutes to make it harden, this way the work to get it out is a bit longer.

Make sure he can reach the food, so that it doesn’t become a frustrating activity.

If your dog is fast and finishes his Kong in 5 minutes, you can make it harder by attaching it to a rope on a doorknob. This way it will move and Doggo will have to work harder.

Depending on the amount of food you put inside, it can be considered as his meal or an extra.

The wobbler (kong) :

An another amazing tool by Kong ! That food dispenser will make your dog think and work with his paws or his nose to get his kibble out of the Wobbler. That can be a bit noisy when it’s rolling but it’s such a great tool.

The slow feeder dog bowl:

For dogs (and cats) who devour their food in two seconds and look at you as if it’s always been empty, here is a smart bowl. If you don’t want to scatter his kibble or to leave a Kong to your dog, this tool could help you a lot and calm down Doggo during meal time. You can look at this model as an example (but try to find a skid-proof model to avoid the bowl from being scattered all over the house).

The water bottle filled with kibble or treats:

Simply take an empty bottle, make a few holes in it, leave it open and it’ll be your dog’s mission to find how to get the kibble out of there. By making it roll, ripping it apart, shaking it…

What if I have several dogs?

Competition may speed up the pace of your dogs and this is not particularly good for their digestive transit and household peace! One of your dogs could be resource guarding food, so we need to make this safe for everyone.

Ideally, you should separate your dogs to be sure that each of them eats his share and that there are no fights.

This advice also works if you choose to keep feeding your dogs in a bowl

The benefits of feeding your dog without a bowl

My mom’s dog, 14 year-old, didn’t have a taste for eating, she had too much pain because of her age and the end of her life approaching. She used to stay away from her bowl. Putting a few pellets in the grass and encouraging her to look for it reawoke her curiosity and appetite. She had something to do of her day, other than laying down and sleeping. She started eating again without thinking about it. 

No matter your dog’s age, size, weight… Any dog will gain from being fed this way, because it stimulates them mentally. Don’t forget that during this time, he spends the activity time he needs intelligently and so satisfies his physiological needs.

It’s good for his mental and physical health! So ? When do you start ?

The DITCH THE BOWL! article first appeared on Only Pawsitive Solutions.

But have you ever asked yourself if they want you to pet them? Approaching a dog, even one you know, needs some assessment and to respect the dogs limits.

In short, be polite…

Here are some basic rules to avoid making Doggo uncomfortable, or worse… getting bitten.

You can apply these precautions to ANY dog. Small, big, that you already know or not, whether it’s a labrador or a German shepherd.

It is crucial to teach kids the best gestures and moves, since, because of their height, they’re more likely to be bitten in the face.

Take it easy!

Don’t run with your arms open yelling « puppyyyyyyyyyy« ! I know, sometimes holding it is reaaaaally hard!

But there’s no better way to scare a dog, who wil live a traumatizing experience.

Walk calmly, stop a few steps before him, keep your hands near you.

The best is to slowly turn your body , to not directly face the dog. It’s a non-offensive posture for a dog (while starring and facing are confrontational). Then, wait for Doggo to come smell you and show you that theses preliminaries are conclusive on his side and that you can take the next step.

Keep in mind that a dog who comes to smell you is absolutely not saying « please pet me ». Some actually are, while others are just interested in smelling you.

Keep your eyes down!

No need to start a staring contest, even if you’re looking at this beautiful labradoodle, with his eyes full of love. The dog will only see it as unsettling, and will feel uncomfortable.

Ask for permission!

I know, it seems stupid, but that’s the least you can do. Just because the lady seems nice and her corgi seems soooooo fluffyyyyyy, doesn’t mean you can rush to him squeaking to pet him.

Imagine, someone finds you « sooooo cuuuuuute » and takes you in their arms without asking! Not really pleasant, huh?

The least you can do is ask the handler if you can pet their dog. And respect their decision!

Let’s go!

Even though everyone is ok for you to pet Doggo, there are still a few precautions to consider.

• Keep your face far from his mouth,
• Don’t make sudden movements,
• Don’t yell in his ears,
• Don’t squeeze him into your arms like a teddy bear,
• Keep observing him to make sure that he is still comfortable. Be especially careful with the calming signals that he could show.

If you’re on the other side of the leash

You have to know your dog’s limits and make sure people respect it, don’t leave anyone pet him any which way.

Nobody can assure that a dog will NEVER bite. You have to keep it in mind. Even your old family dog could, one day, get tired of your nephew fiddling with him and jumping him everytime he comes to your place.

Observe your dog, check if he sends you calming signals to let you know that he isn’t enjoying the situation.

Never punish your dog for showing you that he’s uncomfortable. A dog who growls to ask you to stop (because you didn’t understand the calming signals he sent you) is better than a dog who bites.

Never forget that you are responsible of your dog’s well-being, and of the damage he could do if you don’t listen to his signals.

Pro tips for dog pawrents: It is a full time job sometimes, to prevent people from petting your dog, even if you had the time to say no. Some people don’t listen or choose not to respect our instructions. « I had 100 dogs in my life, so I know dogs » is one of my favorite. That’s why now I deliberately choose to lie, if I don’t have the time or energy to debate. Nobody wants to pet a dog with fleas… So my dogs have fleas…a lot of fleas…I know it’s sad…But my dogs are safe and happy with their fake fleas.

To end on a nice note:

Take a look at this beautiful drawing by the talented Lili Chin.

The How to approach a dog (correctly) article first appeared on Only Pawsitive Solutions.

If his activities’ ratio isn’t reached, the day might seem veeeeery long to him.

And if he isn’t depressed, he will, without a doubt, find an occupation on his own, which might be at your expenses.

Kind of like a child who wouldn’t be cared for, without toys, without anything to do. There is a high risk that he behaves badly, isn’t there?

It’s the same with your dog.

A family dog needs an average of 4 to 5 hours of activity per day, and more if it’s a working breed dog, like border collies, german shepherds , for example.

Let’s see what your dog’s needs are and how to meet them.

The basics:

Just like us Humans, dogs have their own pyramid of needs.

A dog’s first need is to be safe. Our dogs are lucky, we offer them a roof and veterinary care. (Unfortunately, it’s not the case for all the Doggos in the world, even the ones living with a family).

If the dog feels safe, then he can think about eating.

It can feel stupid to specify it, but it is the priority for every dog who feels well.

Our family dog is often assured to eat his fill every day. He has his bowl, his kibble at his disposal, without having anything to do.

Too bad… we’ll see why below.

what your dog needs:

To make it simple and stay focused on what’s vital, here are the activities that any dog needs to have a good dog’s day.

• physical or locomotive activity: running, walking, jumping… everything that offers movement to him.
• games activity: playing is vital for your dog. Playing with you or another dog, even better! It fills social interaction needs and gives him the opportunity to play. Magic combo!

• vocal activity: yes, barking is one of your dog’s needs. Like Humans, some of them talk more or louder than others.
• chewing activity: your dog is chewing your furniture, blankets, socks? It means he has nothing better to get his teeth into to satisfy his need. There’s no point in grumbling against him, it’s biological!
• intellectual activity: yes, you read correctly, your dog needs to think. Teaching him little tricks, asking him to find his toys, to put them back, to look for his food instead of giving him in a bowl… There are many things to do to satisfy this need.
• sexual activity: castration reduces this need for our friends, so it’s yesterday’s news. But if your dog rubs a peer or your leg, you’ll know why. No need punishing him or reproaching it to him, it’s part of his biological needs and he doesn’t do it to make you uncomfortable…

If all of those activities are satisfied thanks to you, no risk for your Doggo to try to satisfy them by himself. No time or energy to destroy your furniture, terrorize the neighbor’s cat, chew your underwear or be depressed!

Help! I don’t have 5 hours per day!

Only a few people have the opportunity to dedicate 5 hours to their dog, between work, kids, leisure… Days are not extensible!

Yet, for your dog to be blooming, he needs general activity.

By chance, some activities don’t require your presence and some will burn your dog more than others! We’re saved!

Each of these activities needs to be satisfied and it is important to know that they don’t tire your dog in the same way.

Mental activity for dogs:

Mental activity is more demanding to your dog than any other activity.

1 hour of mental stimulation is equal to 4 hours of physical activity!

The ideal is to mix all the activities in order for Doggo to satisfy them all, but occasionally we can compensate for the lack of time for one by doing more of another.

However, be careful! Every dog is different and can have more important needs for an activity or another.

It’s important to observe and understand your dog to know what’s indispensable++ for him.

In practice, it can be:

• learning tricks like “play dead”, with the famous “bang!”. Not only will you mentally stimulate your dog, you will also develop some bond and you can impress your friends and neighbors.
• look for your food! No more bowls with regular hours, you hide (somewhere he can find), you throw in the garden (first in a small corner, then in a larger area), you use a kong or any other distributor that makes Doggo think and work to get his meal. No, it’s not “mean” to do that. We go to work and do grocery shopping then cook a meal every day in order to eat. Doggo NEEDS to deserve his food and asks to be stimulated!
• chewing: a kong (Thank God for this tool), a (real) beef ball joint, a chewing bone, playing with a rope (not with a puppy!!)… Anything that can keep him away from your couch or your jacket!

• Go for a walk in a different place, to break out of your routine! It’s also important for your dog to smell new odors, it’s important for him to smell (it’s a dog!!). Of course it’s even better if he can meet friends and have interactions. Why not organize a walk with others?
• Allow him to physically exert himself, by taking him for a run in the woods, on the beach, ride a bike with you. Why not try frisbee? 

If you don’t have time to go out, you can ask him to do push-ups! Sit down, lay down, get up, repeat around ten times. It will require focus and physical effort from him, while you’re sitting down on your couch drinking your… tea.

Don’t forget, in order to reinforce your dog’s good behaviours and his good decisions, we reward the behaviors we want and ignore the ones we don’t want!

If, in spite of your efforts, your dog keeps chewing the bottom of your table or considers your linen as his snack, don’t hesitate to contact me, so that we can find a solution together!

The Understand and meet your dog’s needs article first appeared on Only Pawsitive Solutions.

Traditional methods VS. soft methods

It is a nice thing to have a dog. Knowing how to educate her is a whole different story. If you believed it was an easy task, you now know (or will soon realize) that it is not necessarily the case. 

Nowadays, thanks to the Internet, you have access to dozens of blogs, and hundreds of videos teaching you how to educate a puppy or dog, a double-edged sword. 

You can quickly get lost in all this flow of sometimes contradictory information. 

Methods often vary depending on the person writing the article or making the video. 

Some succeeded in gathering a lot of attention, and are known across the globe, and not always for the well-being of our four-legged companions. 

Who’s the boss?

You have probably heard of Cesar Milan. Ultra mediatized in North America, his methods have gained attention across the pond and found many supporters in Europe. Years of experience, a humongous media budget, and results that you can showcase on the small screen. What else can you ask for?

How about that the experience has positive lasting results in the long term? That the methods respect the needs of our pets? 

I will not put Cesar Milan on trial, but certainly his methods. It has to be constructive! 

I know people who have been operating in the animal education field for decades, and who believed in those same methods even before the so called “Dog Whisperer” became famous and/or criticized. 

I even got trained by some of these people. 

Today they scream from the rooftops that the traditional methods based on concepts of dominance, hierarchy, pack, alpha dog, and advocating violence such as choke collars, hitting and shouting at dogs are not the right ways to educate the animals. There are techniques not rooted in fear and violence that can be deployed to obtain desired results.    

We now know psychological trauma is terrible for dogs. 

If dogs were not gripped by Stockholm syndrome, I believe most mistreated dogs would have abandoned their owner or responded with defensive bites. 

There’s definitely no wolf in the henhouse

It is scientifically proven that there are no alpha nor established hierarchy with dogs unlike with the wolves. 

Hence, showing your authority and alpha status to your dogs by eating before them, putting them on choke collars, or shouting does not make any sense based on scientific findings.  

These methods work 80% of the time because the animals quickly learn the consequences if they don’t obey. However, do they respect you? Would they follow your instructions without their leash and without you risking to lose your voice? 

Without a doubt, you would be ashamed by what happens in their beautiful heads when they are mistreated. 

Those who have tried both methods cannot deny that while some dogs might be extremely obedient, they are literally living a dog’s life. 

There used to be no other alternatives. Being authoritarian was the only recognized and effective method. 

Nowadays, we know better and can (must!) choose better! 

Patience and understanding are worth more than violence and abuse

It has been a while since positive reinforcement has made its way into the animal education world. 

Let’s just think about how lions, rhinoceros, pandas and orcas are able to voluntarily go to their trainers to receive care (shots, dental care, etc. – not even to play). 

The animals seem to enjoy it so much that they are begging for more  

Do you think physical strength has been used, or that the caretakers became the alpha figures of these large creatures who can easily snap them in two like twigs? 

With a lot of patience, understanding of the animals’ psychology, observation, and positive reinforcement, results can be yielded rather rapidly!

The biggest difference between the two methods? The animal’s motivation. 

In the traditional techniques, the animal is trying to avoid uncomfortable, scary and hurtful situations. With positive reinforcement, the animal seeks interactions and learning opportunities. 

Would you prefer to work for a salary, or to avoid being hit?  

When you put it that way, the decision is an easy one to make. 

The results are visible and lasting. They show a real connection between the human being and the animal. 

Yes, we can! 

By opting for respectful methods, you are making the choice to reinforce the desired behaviors rather than the unwanted ones. 

It is not only about giving treats to your dog! 

It is a change that will help you in your everyday life, not only with your interactions with animals, believe me! 

Please be reassured, it’s a fast acquired habit, and you will quickly see the transformation in your dog. 

With a personalized program to help you understand how it works inside your dog’s head, you will become his kind and understanding best friend. 

Your dog already loves you with your flaws, so what do you have to lose? (The answer is nothing, I promise). 

You actually have a lot to gain! 

Just like you would not jump on a lion and wrestle it into obedience, you shouldn’t physically force a dog to obey your commands such as preventing him from jumping on your guests.

Since these methods work for the Lion King, they should certainly work for Doggo!

The Choosing Positive Reinforcement article first appeared on Only Pawsitive Solutions.